Thessaloniki, Greece
Greece, like any place else, has it's fair share of idiosyncrasies. I read a quote some place that, of course, now I can't find that says something along the lines of "There is far more to write about a place having only visited there an hour than if living there 10 years." That was not at all eloquently written and should not be quoted, but you get the idea. Basically, as a new comer, you notice things that people who live in a place take for granted, don't notice any more, or don't know any other way. Greeks haven't know it any other way since the advent of their civilization almost 4,000 years ago. My guess is that, in some respects, not much has changed while in other respects, the times certainly are a-changing.
Economy: So let's talk about the elephant of a financial crisis in the room. Greece, as you know, has been in a dire economic state for the past several years. The last time I was here was in 2010 with Semester at Sea and at first glance, things don't look that different. The ruins are still ancient, the pastries are still delicious, and dinner still takes four hours. To an outsider, things don't look so bad. But talk to the people and you will understand. Honestly, cab drivers are the best resource. They'll tell you anything you want (or don't want) to know. One cabbie told us the story of the mayor of Thessaloniki who embezzled millions of Euros from the city. He has spent the last year or two in jail, but the general consensus is that he may not stay there as long as he should. One cabbie also told us how the Greek economy is going down like the Titanic. It's guaranteed to be an interesting case study for all of the econ majors out there.
Old Greek Men: Old Greek men have mastered the art of retirement quite nicely. I love how they sit for hours upon end at a cafe, sipping frappes, with no place else to be. I also love how they stroll arm in arm down the street. Here is is completely normal for two men to walk with their arms around each other's shoulders. (Many men in the States wouldn't be caught dead doing this for fear that people might question their sexuality. Get over yourselves, guys.) But my absolute favorite thing about old Greek men is their use of komboli, or Greek worry beads. They look like a beaded bracelet with a long tail. They look similar to prayer beads but actually have no religious significance. Old men walk around fidgeting with these beads, be it out of worry or out of habit. Each have their own way of handling the beads, creating their own unique rhythm. Even in the hustle and bustle of the streets of downtown, if you listen carefully, you can hear the subtle click clack of worry beads.
Old Greek Women: Old Greek women always some place to be, always have someone to feed, and always have something to do, probably because all of the old Greek men are too busy sipping frappes at the cafe. And they cross themselves every time they pass a church, which is a lot. It almost looks like some type of upper body aerobics class on some of the public bus routes.
Coffee: The Greeks are serious about their coffee. On cafe menus you can even order a Greek coffee, which I've heard has a rather sledgey texture to it. Yum! Fun fact: Greece is also the birthplace of the frappe. At first I thought this would be similar to a Starbucks-style frappucino, but alas it is Nes Cafe instant coffee mixed with milk, sugar, and water and then whipped to create a froth on top. Nes Cafe is frowned upon in the US, but it's perfectly acceptable in Europe, especially in Greece. I've heard that Greece makes their own Nes Cafe in house to ensure that it's up to snuff. While I did try to love the frappe, I prefer the freddo cappucino, the frappe's better tasting, more expensive Italian cousin.
